Cape Dauphin / Fairy Hole / Glooscap's Caves

Directions
From Sydney take the 125 bypass to the Trans-Canada Highway; continue through to the base of Kelly's Mountain. At the base of Kelly's you will find a hairpin turn. Turn off there toward New Campbellton. After about 18 km the road ends. Park your car to the side and the trail is directly ahead of you.

Trail Info
Level: 5/5
Type: Woodland, Coastal, Historical
Activities: Woodland trail to stone beach and cave, swimming.
Trail Length: The hike to Cape Dauphin is 6 km (return).
Facilities: There are no facilities near Cape Dauphine.

Glooscap was a hero sent by the Great Spirit to be a friend and helper to his people the Mi'kmaq. Supposedly Glooscap lived at Cape Dauphin with a woman he referred to as "Grandmother". Legend has it that one day, when returning to his home, two native women yelled to Glooscap, taunting him from the shore. Glooscap leaped from his canoe breaking it into two pieces. These pieces are still visible from the cove today, they are known as the Bird Islands. The two women laughed at Glooscap, and he turned them to stone. These women are said to be the stone pillars, which guard Glooscap's Cave.

The trail to Cape Dauphin, also known as "The Fairy Hole", is not a difficult one if taken cautiously. There are some spots where you have to step over, or crawl under windfalls. The trail is clearly marked until you get to the river. There is no more trail from there. Follow the river down to the shore were you will find a quaint little beach, perfect for a hotdog roast, or a nice cool dip.

If you look to your right, about five kilometres out you will see the Bird Islands. Directly to your right you will see Glooscap's Cave.

The cave is difficult to get into, if not nearly impossible. Some one has taken the liberty to hook up some ropes to help you along the slippery rocks, but I do not advise you go this way unless you are part mountain goat. I have been in the cave and usually get in through the lagoon directly in front of the cave. You can gain access to this lagoon through a small whole in the rocks that is fully visible at low tide. Once in the lagoon it is just a matter of getting a boost up the rock face to the cave opening, or working extra hard to get yourself in.

I must warn you that the cave can be very claustrophobic and disorienting at times. I do not advise you go inside, but I know this will not stop you if you are the adventurous type, as I am. Even if you do not choose to explore the cave, Dauphin is a great place to spend a few hours. At the end of the trail you have a wonderful view, a great cobblestone beach, and I do advise you try swimming in the lagoon; it is usually a few degrees warmer than the open water.

CAUTION: If you are intending on exploring the cave, please bring a flashlight and tell someone where you are going.

Cape Smokey

Directions
While traveling the Cabot Trail turn at the English town ferry, (located at the base of Kelly's mountain) continue toward Ingonish. At the top of Smokey mountain you will see a sign directing you into the Picnic Park. (The park is located 13 km from the entrance to the Highlands National Park)

Trail Info
Level: 4/5
Type: Coastal, Mountain, Historical
Activities: Picnic area, coastal hike, witness the rebirth of a fire swept forest, view of the Keltic Lodge.
Trail Length: The Cape Smokey trail is 11 km (return).
Facilities: There are picnic tables and outhouses at the parking lot.

Related Info: A few weeks back a mother contacted me about info regarding the Cape Smokey fire - her 9yr old daughter was doing a school project and was having trouble finding info. Quickly realizing there was not much info out there I promised her, on completion, I would post her report for others to learn from.

This trail starts at the Cape Smokey Provincial Park. Smokey is one of the most famous mountains in Cape Breton. As you ascend the steep southern face you will notice the new growth forest on either side of you. This is due to a forest fire that devastated the area in 1968.

Many are happy taking in the view from the nearest picnic table, but if you would like an interesting hike and a view unseen by many, make your way toward the trail head, which starts on the north side of the parking lot.

The first half-hour or so of the trail is all down hill (but you know what that means, it is all up hill on the way back). Climbing up the other side of this valley you will reach open terrain and the sight of the first look off. There are several similar stations along this ridge top, all with spectacular views. On a clear day you may see industrial Cape Breton -Glace Bay, New Waterford, and Sydney Mines- even though they are more than 50 km away.

Continuing through these barrens is a constant reminder of what fire can do to the land that I've learned to admire so much.

Keep your eyes open for moose. Dave and I were fortunate enough to see one the day we hiked Smokey. You will see plenty of their tracks, along with evidence of bobcat and coyote.

The final fifteen minutes descends about 300 feet to a look off over South Bay Ingonish. Although difficult to see the day we were there (due to fog) the look off faces toward the Keltic Lodge (Cape Breton's most famous resort). The lodge is also the starting point of Middle Head trail. If you look beyond the low lands you may even see the fire tower on top of Franey Mountain.

Take some photos, have a snack and rest; the trek back is mostly up hill. Backtrack the way you came, until you come to the parking area, and the welcome sight of our provincial flag perched on the flagpole.

Egypt Falls

Directions
Take the Trans-Canada highway (route 105) to Whycocomagh, turn onto route 395 North, East Lake Ainslie (The turn off is located at Vie's Restaurant). Drive until you see a sign for Pipers Glenn and Egypt Road, about 30 km from the Whycocomagh turnoff. Turn right and drive about 2 km. On your left side you'll see a small house and across from it is a road with a tiny white bridge. Drive up that road exactly .9 km and keep lookout for a small white sign on your right side for Egypt falls.

Trail Info
Level: 4/5
Type: Waterfall, Woodland
Activities: Woodland hike to 60 ft wide water fall, picnic.
Trail Length: The hike to Egypt Falls is about 2 km (return) with a steep uphill on the way back.
Facilities: There is a gas station at the turn off in Whycocomagh.

Near Lake Ainslie, the largest fresh water lake in all of Cape Breton, lies Egypt Falls. It may also be listed as Piper's Glen in some hiking books. The falls were originally called Appin Falls, named after the Steward family of Appin, Scotland, who settled near the falls in the 1800's.

The trail leading to the falls is short (only 15 minutes) and downhill the whole way. The last five minutes forces you to ascend the steep walls of the gorge, which houses the Matheson Glen Brook. This brook is home to one of the only falls in Cape Breton, which is wider then it is tall (20 meters in width and less then half that in height).

If it were not for the aid of a rope tied to the walls of the gorge, I believe you would never get out of there (I could think of worse places to get stuck). If you take your time climbing, and enjoy the scenery of the woodland hike, you will have a safe and memorable visit to Egypt Falls.

NOTE: I have been told the rope is starting to wear and may be dangerous, please be careful. And if you have some rope laying around you may even take it with you to replace the one there.

Fishing Cove

Directions
While traveling the Cabot trail, you will pass through a small Acadian town called Cheticamp. Fishing Cove is located about half an hour past the town, just a few kilometres from Pleasant Bay. (The hike is located in the Highlands National Park, so you may want to pick up a map of hiking trails as you enter the Park)

Trail Info
Level: 5/5
Type: Woodland, Coastal, Camping
Activities: Woodland trail to secluded cove, camping and swimming.
Trail Length: The hike to Fishing Cove is 16 km (return).
Facilities: There are outhouses and firewood for you at the cove.
As we set up our tent we noticed two moose across the valley on the far slope, and then there was the rabbit that almost plowed me down a short distance from camp. You know you are roughing it when you have to fight nature for squatting rights.

From your tent you are within five minutes of the beach, a still water to wash up in, the river that leads into the cove, and a few short walking trails that will assist you in exploring the cove.

This is a great one for you individuals that love wilderness camping. Because of the great length of the trail (about four hours each way) it is almost mandatory and also highly suggested that you carry in your camping gear and spend the night.

The trail is a long, but beautiful one. You will travel from mountains to valleys, along streams and rivers. The trail is steep in some places and you will find yourself making good use of the benches that are placed along the way. Stop frequently for a mouthful of water. Do not fear running out of water, there is a fresh water spring about half way into the trail. We had four liters of water between the two of us. With fill ups, that seemed to do us just fine.

When the trail opens up into the cove you will know why you bothered hiking the four hours in. Fishing cove is nestled into a valley, rolling slopes on either side of a river that leads into the cove. There are level platforms to set your tent up on, fire pits, wood, and outhouses.

Fox Cove

Directions
From the Sydney Bypass (route 125) take exit 7 toward Marion Bridge, driving about 14 km to cross the bridge. Continue for about another kilometre, keeping to your left at the Gabarus turnoff (Watch for the sign). Drive for another 20 km to an intersection, take your right towards Framboise and drive until you come to the General store (About a kilometre past the second one lane bridge). Turn left after the store, onto the Crooked Lake Road. Drive to the end of the road and you are there.

Trail Info
Level: 1/5
Type: Coastal, Historical
Activities: Coastal hike, fishing, picnic, pioneer cemetery.
Trail Length: The hike to Fox Cove is 3 km (return), trail continues on after Fox Cove if you wish to follow it.
Facilities: There is a general store at the turn off to Crooked Lake rd.

This coast is a delightful place, with every type of environment you could imagine. From sandy beaches, to cobblestone and pebble coastlines, sandy cliffs to grassy headlands, Fox Cove has it all.

The trail takes you along the windswept headlands littered with many types of berries (the strawberries were just ripening the day we were there). These headlands follow the beach and tower over it; thirty feet in some areas, all the way to Fox cove just 4 km away.

As you travel along the trail you are overwhelmed by your senses. The sound of the birds and ocean, the smell of the salt air, the taste of wild berries (be sure to bring your field guide to identify them before tasting). The feel of the sand being thrown at your legs by the strong ocean winds and the beauty of the coast which extends for miles in each direction, all of these qualities, put together, play havoc on your ability to reason.

The trail is fairly easy walking. The only difficult point is crossing of the channel at Lower Marie Joseph Lake.

The Pioneer Cemetery

A short distance before the beach is a road, which leads to a pioneer cemetery. Headstones dating back to the 1700's, paying homage to such family names as MacDonald or McLeod, which are still very prominent on the island today. You could spend hours here, just wondering what happened to these people, how did they die?

Franey

Directions
While traveling the Cabot Trail, turn at the English town ferry (located at the base of Kelly¹s mountain), continue toward Ingonish. A few kilometres past the entrance of the Highland National Park you will see a sign across from the beach at Ingonish Centre, turn left here. Continue on this road for another kilometre. (The hike is located in the Highlands National Park, so you may want to pick up a map of hiking trails as you enter the Park)

Trail Info
Level: 5/5
Type: Mountain, Woodland
Activities: Mountain hike to an outcrop overlooking Clyburn Valley.
Trail Length: The hike is about 9.2 km (return).
Facilities: There is a store in Ingonish.

Franey is one of the hiking trails that show you what Cape Breton is all about, Rolling mountains, fall colours, and cool ocean scenes. I've gone only once but I will never forget it.

The mountains in this region of the Highlands National park roll one into the other forming a vertual sea of vegetation. Steep high mountains such as Cape smokey and lush fertile valleys such as the Cyburn litter this area.

Climbing 365 metres in only four kilometres this mountain hike is quite steep in areas. As part of the park the trail is well kept and safe. Stairs have been constructed in some of the steeper portions of the trail but that does not mean it is easy.

The climb is well worth it. When you reach the top the brush opens up to the former sight of a fire tower. Here you will find a large outcrop of flat rock perfect for a snack or to sit and take in the sights below.

From here you can see the eastern coast of Cape Breton, the valley river far below, and, if visited in early October, a sea of reds, oranges, and yellows.

Gooseberry Cove

Directions
From the Sydney Bypass (route 125) take exit 8 toward Louisbourg. Drive about twenty minutes until you come to a sign that directs you to Lorraine, just before the town of Louisbourg (There is a road directly across from the sign, do not take that road. Your turnoff is the next one). After about 3 km of driving you will see a sign on your right for "St. Peter & St. Jude cemetery". Drive about 2 km more, turn at the third driveway on your right past the cemetery. The driveway was marked with ribbon and an arrow the last time I was there. Continue down this rough dirt road to the end. The road will deposit you directly in front of the cove.

Trail Info
Level: 1/5
Type: Coastal
Activities: Coastal exploration, walk along a beach, picnic.
Trail Length: Walk as long or as little as you wish.
Facilities: There are stores and shops in Louisbourg.
Gooseberry Cove is one of those places that not too many people know about, but those that do know about it take everyone there to see it. The rolling land that surrounds the cove is home to many different types of berries. Blueberries, cloudberries, fox berries, cranberries, and juniper berries are all found here, the funny thing is, there are no Gooseberries to be seen (please consult your field guide before eating any berries). One of the most interesting things about this cove is that it houses two or three shipwrecks, from as far back as the 1700's to as resent as the turn of the century.

This cove is one of my favorite places on Cape Breton Island. It is not exactly a hike but more of an adventure. There are many coves, beaches, and inland areas to explore. There are areas that you can light a fire to roast hotdogs and not have to worry about it getting away from you. There are also many places to sit and get away from it all. From rugged coast to spongy marshlands that spring beneath your step, Gooseberry Cove is a collage of textures. The inland areas look like something from the highlands of Scotland, and the coast looks like nothing you have ever seen.

You can spend an hour here or bring a lunch and spend the whole day. Either way I promise you that you will be back. Just remember, next time you go, share it with a friend.

Gull Cove

Directions
From the Sydney Bypass (route 125) take exit 7 toward Marion Bridge, drive about 14 km. Continue for about another kilometre after the bridge, keeping to your left at the Gabarus turnoff (Watch for the sign). Drive for another 20 km to an intersection. Turn left toward Gabarus, you will start to see signs for a hiking trail. Continue through the village until the pavement ends at the Breakwaters. Turn right and continue to the end, the parking lot is beside the cemetery, the trail is locates to the right of the cemetery.

Trail Info
Level: 2/5
Type: Coastal, Historical
Activities: Coastal hike to an early 1900s settlement.
Trail Length: The hike to Gull Cove is 12 km (return), you can continue on for 25 km to Forchu Bay.
Facilities: There are no facilities in the general area.

The area of Gull Cove is actually an old settlement from the early 1900's. Deserted now, with nothing more than some stone walls and old stone foundations, Gull Cove is the perfect place to sit and turn back time. Back to a time when towns were small and travel was tough. The trail is actually the cart track that once connected Gull cove to the rest of civilization. The trail is now traveled mostly by ATVs and hikers, and is maintained by the residents of Gabarus.

The first thing you will notice on this trail is the swampy ground. The second thing you will notice is the salt swept trees, which line the trail. Twisted and stunted in growth, they will be a familiar sight for the remainder of the hike. After about twenty minutes of fairly relaxed hiking, you will come to Harris beach and a magnificent view of Gabarus Bay. The salt air hits you like a ton of bricks and on a clear day you can look across the water to the historic properties of the Fortress of Louisbourg. Although you can not see the fortress itself, you can catch a glimpse of the water tower, which supplies water to all of Louisbourg. Continuing on, the next landmark you will come to is Lowell Point, don't let the "Low Point" sign fool you. This sign marks the halfway point.

The trail continues with more of the same until you come upon Gull Cove. Don't worry you will know when you get there. The rolling hills and old foundations will give it away. Once at the cove you can perch yourself upon the headlands and look down on the ruins below. I know it is easy to get lost in time but keep an eye on your watch; you still have to make your way back.

If you are the adventurous type you can follow the coast for the next 25 km, all the way to Fourchu Bay, extending the hike to several days. I only advise this to the most experienced of outdoorsmen. The coast can get rather rough if the weather changes, as it is known to do on this stretch of coast.

Island View Falls

Directions
Take Route 4 to the Eskasoni turnoff. Turn and drive 14 km until you see the "Island View" sign on your right. Just past the sign you'll come to a small white bridge over a brook. Pull your car off the road into the small clearing, just before the bridge.

Trail Info
Level: 4/5
Type: Waterfall, Woodland
Activities: Walk through the middle of a brook to a waterfall, swimming, possibility of seeing a bald eagle.
Trail Length: The hike to the falls is about 2 km (return).
Facilities: Stores in Eskasoni.

Island View is located just outside of the village of Eskasoni, one of the several Mi'kmaw reserves located on Cape Breton. The Eskasoni reserve is a wealth of information and culture. There are many stories and legends to be told here and many welcome arms to be seen. As long as you welcome their culture and beliefs they are willing to accept you. Just remember that the Mi'kmaq were here long before you and I, so respect their culture as you would Cape Breton itself.

The trail itself runs directly up the middle of Island View Brook, and goes on for about a half hour on a day when the brook is low. We did venture up to the falls on a day when the river was high (just after a heavy rainfall, it took us nearly an hour and a half). We had to travel most of the way on the banks due to the strong currents.

On a day that the water is low it is a very calming walk. There are many pools along the way to dip into, and the river's banks loom above you creating a canopy overhead.

Once you get to the falls there are several pools to swim in, (some of which are over my head) the best being near the top. It is also very relaxing to prop yourself under one of the falls and let the pressure beat down on your back.

This is a great place to sit and take it all in, go for a dip and have a picnic. It is the kind of place you will want to sit and relax for the entire day.

Lighthouse Trail

Directions
From the Sydney Bypass (route 125) take exit 8 toward Louisbourg. Drive about twenty minutes until you come to the town of Louisbourg. Just past the S&L Railway Museum, turn left onto Havenside Road. Follow this road (keeping to the right) until you come to the Louisbourg lighthouse and parking lot. The trail starts on the far side of the parking lot.

Trail Info
Level: 5/5
Type: Coastal, Historical
Activities: Coastal hike following a route traveled since the early 1700's.
Trail Length: The hike to Big Lorraine is 14 km (return).
Facilities: There are stores in the town of Louisboug.

You will never find a more historical hike then the Lighthouse Trail. The present day lighthouse is actually the fourth to be built on this point, the original being the first built in Canada, in 1734. Lighthouse point was the sight of the English attack on Battery Island which guards the entrance to Louisbourg Harbour. Battery point was a first deference for the Fortress of Louisbourg, the largest historical reconstruction in North America. About one hour down the trail you will find Wolfe's cove, the actual site where the English landed with their canons. As you walk, think of the English troops dragging six cannons along these cliffs and bogs to the lighthouse.

The trail starts at the Louisbourg lighthouse and continues on to Big Lorraine, located about 7 km away. Lorraine Head, the sight of a 1900's Irish immigrant shipwreck, The Astrea, is located two hours into the trail. We found that this was far enough to go for the day. But then again it was about 26 degrees that day, with very little shade on the coast. You should be careful on this hike, there are many areas near cliffs and spots where the trail disappears and you are forced to follow the rugged coast.

You will find many quaint coves and knolls on this hike. You will also notice many bogs and sinkholes along the way (careful around these, I sunk up to my knee in one). There are many opportunities to take pictures along the way and you will find much plant life and wildlife to keep you interested. One of the most unusual things about the plant life is the spongy feeling you get underfoot as you walk. These areas are all rock, with very little drainage; the vegetation grows on top of this terrain and therefore forms almost a waterbed affect.

CAUTION: The weather in this area, like most of Cape Breton, can change quickly. The rocks can become very slippery when the weather gets bad.

Middle Head

Directions
While traveling the Cabot Trail, turn at the English town ferry (located at the base of Kelly¹s mountain), continue toward Ingonish. A few kilometres past the entrance of the Highland National Park is the Keltic Lodge. The trail is located next to the lodge's parking. (The hike is located in the Highlands National Park, so you may want to pick up a map of hiking trails as you enter the Park)

Trail Info
Level: 3/5
Type: Coastal
Activities: Coastal hike to a peninsula overlooking North and South Bay. View of tern rock.
Trail Length: The hike is about 4 km (return).
Facilities: There is a store in Ingonish.

This trail starts at the Keltic Lodge, Cape Breton's most famous inn. Located in the Highland National Park, the trail is well kept and fairly easy hiking.

The hike follows a peninsula that juts out into the Atlantic Ocean. The most glorious sights on this trail are to be seen at the end, when the path deposits you atop a cliff, with the Atlantic waters crashing below. From here you can look to the right over South Bay and see the end of Cape Smokey trail.

If you explore the area around the end of the peninsula you will find scenery reminiscent to the Scottish highlands (or at least how I would imagine it to look). I could explore this peninsula for hours and still find new beauty.

NOTE: The tip of the peninsula is home to the Tern and is closed during nesting season.

North River Falls

Directions
While traveling the Cabot trail take exit 11 toward St. Anns (Located at the base of Kelly's mountain). continue for about twenty minutes until you come to the North River bridge. Turn left onto the Oregan Road. Drive for about 3 km until you come to the sign for the Provincial Park.

Trail Info
Level: 5/5
Type: Waterfall, Woodland
Activities: Woodland hike along river, to 100ft waterfall, swimming. Wild flowers, butterflies, animals.
Trail Length: The hike to the falls is 18 km (return).
Facilities: Out houses & water at trail head.

On the way along the trail to North River falls you will notice at least one foundation and a number of stone walls. These walls were created of the stones cleared from the land, which a number of Scots families called home in the mid-1800's. In fact the park is located on the former site of a schoolhouse.

The trail starts at the sign near the edge of the parking lot, and leads up to an old road. The children of the Scottish settlers probably used this same route to travel to school each day. The first five kilometres or so make for fairly casual hiking and will provide many chances to get a good look at North River. You will come to a fork in the path; following the left will take you to the river where you will get a glimpse of a Salmon pool, keep an eye open, you may see these hungry fish jumping for flies. This is where the casual hiker may want to turn back, but if it is true beauty you want, follow the right path, to the falls. The remainder of the trail is fairly difficult, with many ups, downs, and makeshift bridges (logs with boards nailed to them) but it is the length that may get you in the end. Stretching nine kilometres to the falls, the trail takes you along both banks of the North River, crossing it in two locations, and becoming more treacherous toward the end. Watch your step, roots and rocks are a common interference on the last three kilometres.

The last kilometre is a series of hills and drops and the sound of the falls is not an uncommon occurrence. As you approach the falls the sight will overwhelm you. The North River Falls are the highest falls in Cape Breton (about 100 ft in height) and are a sight to be seen. The first day we went to the falls we spent about two hours there. It was a little early in the year, but they say it is a great place to swim later in the season. In the spring butterflies are abundant in this area.

NOTE: Near the start of the trail you will notice a lead off trail that heads down toward the parking lot. Early in spring, Lady Slippers grow along this trail (around mid June). They are a delicate flower, unlike any you have seen before. These plants are considered endangered and should not be picked.

Pringle Mountain

Directions
Take Route 4 to St. Peter's, turning in the village toward Oban, French Cove, and The points West Bay. Drive for about 25 km and look for a small-unnamed bridge. The bridge is located just a few kilometres past The Points West Bay. The trail is located about 100 metres before the bridge on the left-hand side. If you can not find it ask around, the people here are friendly.

Trail Info
Level: 3/5
Type: Mountain, Woodland
Activities: Mountain hike to a large lake, fishing, swimming.
Trail Length: The hike to Pringle Lake is about 7 km (return).
Facilities: The are stores in St. Peter's.

Pringle Mountain is named after James Pringle who settled the Points West Bay area in 1851, as is Pringle Harbour, Pringle Brook, Pringle Island, and Pringle Lake. In the early 1900's this area prospered in the areas of agriculture, forestry, and livestock. The area was home to a carding mill, a sawmill and, as you will find at the base of Pringle Mountain, a grist mill (which once ground things such as grain).

This trail leads up hill immediately, but don't discourage, the trail levels out after the first 2 km. You will find a fork in the trail at the base of the mountain. The right trail visits the remains of an old gristmill, located on the banks of Pringle Brook. Following the left fork will take you up the mountain itself.

The main trail is fairly easy to follow, but if you intend to visit Pringle Lake it may take a little work. To get to the lake you take a left just before a little bridge, located just after a clearing. Take the first offshoot trail you find to the right. Following this trail will lead you to a still water, which is connected to Pringle Lake by a small creek (the lake can be reached by skirting the still water).

The Lake is a lot larger than I expected. The area is used a lot by fishermen, but is also a great place to go for a swim. Along the edge of the lake you will find plenty of evidence of beavers (notice all the chewed branches and twigs). If you keep your eyes open you may be lucky enough to see one.

Back at the bridge, if you cross and take a right, the trail will quickly end in a clearing used by many as a base station when fishing. Just down the bank is a lovely view of the brook.

The main trail continues, but for the perfect day of hiking you need not look any farther then the lake (Pringle Lake is the highlight of this hike).

White Point

Directions
While traveling the Cabot Trail turn at the English town ferry, (located at the base of Kelly's mountain) continue toward Ingonish. Continue through the Highlands National Park and turn right toward Neil's Harbour (about 5 km past the park entrance). Drive another 13 km toward Cape North and turn off when you see the White Point sign on your right. Follow this road for about 14 km to the village of White Point. Continue onto the dirt road when the pavement ends and park your car in the wider area.

Trail Info
Level: 3/5
Type: Coastal
Activities: Coastal hike to a peninsula overlooking Aspy Bay, Cape North and St. paul Island.
Trail Length: The hike is about 6 km (return).
Facilities: There is a store in Ingonish.
White Point was once a busy little place. By 1922 it was home to a lobster factory, church, school and a sawmill, not to mention many homes. Now all that remains to mark what was once a booming French fishing village are a few stone foundations and a cemetery, with a cross marking the final resting place of the unknown sailor.

From White Point you can look across Aspy Bay to Cape North and Money point. Or let your eye follow the coast to the white sand of Dingwall and Cabot Landing. And far on the horizon you can just make out St. Paul Island. The trails on White Point can lead you aimlessly around the point but I have found that the best way to follow them is to take the most prominent of the trails down to the point itself. From there if you turn around toward where you came from, and look toward your left you will see a small trail leading to a hill marked with a pile of stones at the top. Rounding the base of this hill on the ocean side you will pick up the trail and notice that it is mark the rest of the way along the coast with red paint splashed on the rocks.

This trail takes you to Big Burnt Head Cove. Perched upon a cliff, this is a great place to sit and relax, have a picnic and count ants. You will notice that there are many of them around. The day we were there we saw a Bald Eagle circling overhead, and seagulls flying 15 metres below us, at the waters level.

CAUTION: The trail skirts some rather high cliffs. You should always be weary of your footing and do not go too close to the edge. Some of the edges look solid but are supported underneath by nothing.

Whycocomagh Provincial Park / Salt Mountain

Directions
Travel the Trans-Canada Highway toward the town of Whycocomagh. Whycocomagh Provincial Park is located about 1 km out side of the town (On the Sydney side). The entrance of the park is marked with a "Department of Natural Resources" sign.

Trail Info
Level: 4/5
Type: Mountain, Woodland
Activities: Mountain hike to a view of all four counties.
Trail Length: The hike to the top of Salt Mountain is 2.5 km (return).
Facilities: The are outhouses, water, benches, picnic tables, camping & firewood in the park, and stores in the town of Wycocomagh.

Whycocomagh, meaning "Head of the Waters" in Mi'kmaq, houses one of the nicest mountaintop views I have ever seen. People say that there is a salt-water spring located at the top of Salt Mountain. I am not sure if it is true or not, but I would be interested in finding out.

Salt Mountain is a short hike but should not be mistaken for a simple stroll in the woods. Its steep climb will take the breath away from even the most seasoned of hikers. And if the hike itself doesn't, I promise the view at the top will.

The trailhead is located in Whycocomagh Provincial Park, housing 75 campsites, a picnic area, and boat launch. The trail forms a figure eight, and despite trail markers located on the occasional tree, is slightly hard to find in spots along the way. As I stated before the trail is steep but the view at the end is worth it. At the top of Salt Mountain there are several look offs, which give sight to all four of Cape Breton's counties and a magnificent view of the Bras d'Or Lakes.

Isabelle Stewart Farley donated this property in 1959, in memory of her brother Hugh McLellan, killed in World War I. In fact at the top of the trail you will find a bronze plaque commemorating the donation of the park.

Uisge Ban Falls

Directions
Travel the Trans-Canada Highway (route 105), take Exit 9, and turn towards Baddeck-Forks (a right turn at the top of the exit ramp). After 10.3km (and crossing ONE single lane bridge) you should come to North Branch road on your left. Take North Branch ~4km to the park's parking lot (Occasional signs may direct you from the Highway)


Trail Info
Level: 2/5
Type: Waterfall, Woodland
Activities: Woodland hike along river, to waterfall, swimming.
Trail Length: The Uisge Ban trail is 6 km (return) if you travel both the waterfalls trail and the river trail.
Facilities: There are picnic tables and outhouses at the beginning, stores in Baddeck.

The name "Uisge Ban" is Gaelic for "white water" and is pronounced by those of us without a Gaelic tongue as OOSH-KA-ban, or ISH-KA-ban. Gaelic is a slowly diminishing language on Cape Breton Island but is still heard in conversation amongst the older members of many small communities.

The Uisge Ban trail is maintained by the provincial park authorities and therefore the walking is fairly easy and trails well kept.

The trail is divided into two distinct paths. The woodland river trail and the falls trail. I suggest you try both trails; each has its own majestic qualities.

The River Trail
Coming to the fork in the trail you keep to the right on the river trail. It will lead you along the banks of the North Branch River, across wooden footbridges, and provide you with several benches and look offs for time to reflect on the beauty. This section of the trail has something for everyone, from bird watchers, to botanists, to simple nature lovers. The river trail is a loop trail and will lead you around depositing you back at a fork in the trail.

The Falls Trail
This time take the falls trail, which will escort you to the source of the "Uisge Ban" name. Closing in on the falls you will begin to hear the roar of the water. As you gain sight of the falls you will be ah struck by the sight of thousands of gallons of whitewater being thrown over fifty-some feet of rock. There is nothing like it, except for North River falls, but we'll get to that later.